Watch this video for tips and guides on how to insulate a roof from outside in. George and his team insulates a roof from the outside in with two Pound closed cell polyurethane foam in a residential attic.

The latest revolutionary energy saving product from NEWPRO. This is a shocking demonstration of the insulating power of the NEWPRO Ultramax attic barrier.This is part 1 in a series of videos…check back often as we explore the benefits of this innovative new product. Visit www.newpro.com for more information.

Watch this video for spray foam insulation on the ceiling. Discover how spray foam insulation is done and how it looks after it settles and dries out. Generally, polyurethane foam is used to insulate the ceiling. See how the professional do the insulation work. Video made possible by Insulation Works LLC, serving Southern Wisconsin.

As discussed before, the door is one part of the house that can easily cause exchange in terms of hot or cold air between the indoor and outdoor environment. When there is an energy leak through the door gap whether top or bottom, there will be a heat loss or gain in your house which will certainly cause the heating or cooling equipments to work extra harder to cool or heat the house. When this situation occurs, there is no doubt you will be paying higher electricity bill.

Weather stripping the door helps a lot in terms of reducing heat exchange and it’s very effective in keeping the house comfortable. But weather stripping is only part of the overall home insulation process and it’s certainly not enough if you just weather strip the door. You also need to install a door sweep at the bottom of the door to keep the hot and cold air outside from entering the house.

Installing a door sweep or a bottom door seals will close any gaps between the bottom of the door and the threshold. The best part is that the steps needed to apply the sweep or seal can be easily done on your own or on a do it yourself (DIY) basis. Most door sweep or door seals kits can be cheaply purchased at local hardware stores. Generally they come with a variety of colors and materials to suit your door. Therefore, if you are not familiar with the types, just ask the store assistants. To ensure best result, choose the one that suits your door and the decoration. Some of the sweeps or seals are made of silicon which can last a lifetime.

In general, most door sweeps combine a metal strip that screws onto the door with a flexible seal that hangs below the door. Therefore, before going straight to screw the sweep onto the door, make sure that the sweep fits the door and can cover the threshold or gap underneath. You can do this by holding the sweep against the door and from there you can decide on the best position for the sweep. To make sure that no gap exists, the sweep or seal must touch the floor. Once the position is determined, mark the screw positions with an erasable marker pen or anything that won’t stick permanently on the door. After that, pre-drill the holes and screw the sweep to the door.

When you are done with installing the sweep, try moving the door to check if the sweep or seal is too close to the floor which can hinder the movement of the door. If that’s the case, then you are in big trouble. It’s painful job to take the sweep off and re-install it again. Therefore, the step to determine the best position on the door for the sweep is important and must be done right in the first place.

A door sweep can seal the bottom of a door very effectively.

In short, a door sweep can seal the bottom of a door very effectively and takes only minutes to install. Installing the door sweep is only part of the home insulation process and the door must also be weather stripped for maximum efficiency in reducing heat exchange between indoor and outdoor environment.

The door is one of the areas in the house that can easily cause heat exchange between the indoor and the outdoor environment. It’s especially true if the door is not weather stripped, leaving a draft that can drastically sip energy away, whether heat or cold air, making your heater and air conditioner working hard to heat or cool. As a result, you will be paying through the roof for your utility bill due to the extra usage of electricity.

Weather stripping a door is important and it’s part of the home insulation process that needs to be taken care of. It takes only a few minutes to weather strip a door and the best part is that you can do it on your own without having to hire any contractor. The following are some guidelines based on a Do It Yourself (DIY) basis which means you are not only saving money but also making your home more comfortable to live.

The first thing to weather stripping a door is to check potential drafts through exterior door to determine if the door needs to be weather stripped. The easiest way to do this is to place a piece of paper between the door and the frame and close the door. Alternatively, you can ask someone to shine a flashlight around the edges of the closed door. I still think the paper method is better as shining a light with a flashlight is subtle and might not be easily done.

After you have placed the piece of paper and the door is closed, try to slide the paper out or see the light from the flashlight if you use the flashlight method. If the paper can be easily slide out without breaking apart, the door’s seal needs to be weather stripped. Generally the kits for weather stripping a door are easily available in many varieties, ranging from the flexible tubes to other material that’s often aided with a strip of thin metal.

Basically all you have to do is to purchase these kits at the hardware store. After that, you just cut the weather stripping material in the kit to fit the sides and top of the door frame. Nail, screw or stick it in place if necessary, depending on the kits. Some don’t necessary require nailing to be done. To ensure perfect stripping and maximum efficiency, you need to make sure the strip touches the door but doesn’t prevent it from closing properly.

Easy DIY Guide on Weather Stripping A Door

After you have stuck the strips to the frames, check to see if there are any broken or uneven parts that might leak heat or cool air out. The strip can last for a long time and they are cheaply available.

In conclusion, weather stripping a door not only seals the door against cold or hot air, but also prevents pollens and dust from entering. That’s one of the easiest home insulation methods that you can do on your own or DIY to save money and make your home as comfortable as possible.

Home insulation won’t be effective without considering the effect of interaction between the outdoor and indoor environment. Generally the windows, doors and some of the vents in the house are the areas that cause major heat loss whereby the air whether hot or cold from outside will interfere with the indoor environment through these places if they are not sealed properly. These areas are critical to be sealed or caulked to prevent heat exchange between the outdoor and indoor environment.

The thing about caulking and sealing these spaces is that it can be done easily on your own and on a do-it-yourself (DIY) basis. The following are some guidelines that you can follow for caulking and sealing the windows, doors and vents and even some pipe joints in your house. These simple DIY guides will save you money from hiring a contractor. The only thing that you need to pay for is the caulking materials and a little of your time.

The first thing that you need to do when considering caulking and sealing off the leaking spaces is to remove the old caulking and any loose paint around joints in windows, doors and vents if there are available. After removing them, you need to at least clean the surface by using a piece of damp cloth in order to get the best result for new caulking. This will provide better adhesion for the new caulking, which can be applied using a tube and gun, or (for small areas) a tube that’s squeezable by hand. An exterior-grade, silicone acrylic latex caulk is a good all-purpose choice.

Next is to cut the tip of the caulking tube at a 45-degree angle to produce an opening about 3/8-inch wide, and use a nail or awl to puncture any inner seal. Holding the gun or tube at a 30 to 45 degree angle, apply the caulking in a long bead all around joint. For best result, apply constant pressure and even movement to the tube or gun. If the bead of caulking is bumpy or uneven, wet the back of a spoon and run it along the bead to smooth it out (you can also use your finger, but wear latex or similar gloves). Other alternative is to use a caulk-smoothing tool for professional looking finish. It’s cheaply available in most hardware stores.

A word of caution here is that areas such as weep holes in masonry and window frames, or masonry joints that are purposely left mortar-free are not required to be caulked and sealed. These areas are meant for condensation and other moisture to escape and if blocked will cause water damage.

Best result can be achieved from caulking if the gaps are less than ½ inch wide. For bigger gap, you are not encouraged to apply the caulk directly on to it since the caulk might not be strong enough to seal off the whole space. What you need to do here is fill a bigger gap with expanding foam insulation first or place a backer rod inside it, then caulk on top to finish the seal if necessary.

Choose a caulk color that will either match or be unobtrusive next to your wall.

Finally, after you are done, leave the caulk for about half an hour and come back to check the result to see if there are any broken parts or unsealed gap. If everything looks good, then you are done and you will have a professionally done caulking on all the windows, doors and vents. They will not only save you money but also make your home more comfortable and heat loss is kept to the minimum.

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